Honey squash has high edible and medicinal value. In addition to sugar content of about 13.5%, it is also rich in other organic matter and minerals. In addition to cooking, its fruits can be made into cakes, preserved fruits, candied fruit, etc., not only unique in flavor, moderately sweet and crisp, soft and refreshing, smooth but not greasy, rich in nutrients, and have medicinal properties such as supplementary benefits, stomachic, physical, and blood pressure. It is the best supplementary food for drug addicts. It can also be used as a raw material for brewing. In addition, there is no pesticide pollution and residue in the cultivation process. Its tender stems and leaves can also be eaten as vegetables, so it is a nutritional, safe, ecological and health food. Honey pumpkin is a fashionable vegetable in urban and rural areas at present. It has a large demand at home and abroad and has a very broad development prospect. Therefore, planting honey pumpkin can obtain high quality, high yield and high efficiency. The honey pumpkin is easy to cultivate and manage. According to its own practice and summary, the main points of its cultivation technology are introduced as follows.
1. Soil selection
Honey pumpkin has strong adaptability and can grow in various soils. It can also be planted in gaps and slopes that are not suitable for farming, but it is best to choose deep soil, convenient irrigation and drainage, loose and fertile, sunny and leeward, and pH 5.5-6.8 Sandy soil or sandy loam soil, reddish brown purple soil planting. The cultivation of newly reclaimed gaps and slopes requires the application of a large amount of organic fertilizer. Honey pumpkins generally do not need to be set up, and let the vines crawl freely. If they are set up, the effect is better.
2. Cultivating strong seedlings
(1) Sowing time. It is generally cultivated by spring sowing. For nursery seedlings in protected areas, the sowing time should be from late February in early spring (the temperature is stable above 8oC) to early March, that is, from rain to stinging. Open field seedlings or direct seeding should be sown from mid-March (the temperature is stable above 10oC) to late April, the earlier the better. It can also be sown from May to June in summer, but the later the yield is lower and the quality is worse.
(2) Breeding methods. Use fat balls or nutrient bowls to cover the heat preservation seedlings with double film, and if conditions permit, small arched shed fat balls or nutrition pots can be used to heat preservation seedlings.
1. Seedbed selection. The seedbed should be selected in a higher terrain, dry and filtered water, and a sunny and leeward place.
2. Fat ball (nutrition bowl) production. Choose dry, fertile soil and miscellaneous fertilizers, or garden soil or vegetable soil mud, and mix with human and animal manure (2 kg of superphosphate per 100 kg can be added, and nitrogen fertilizers such as urea cannot be added) until it can be lightly kneaded into a ball, about 1.5 meters. Drop the nutrient soil that can be scattered on the ground at a high place, and then pinch the cylindrical fat balls with a diameter of 8-10 cm and a diameter of 5-8 cm (the nutrient bowl only needs to be made or purchased, and then filled with nutrient soil and compacted slightly) , and use the index finger to press the seeding hole 1 cm deep at the upper end. When placing the fat balls (nutrition bowl), a gap of about 1 cm should be left.
3. Sowing seeds. The seeds should be soaked before sowing to ensure that the seedlings emerge neatly. Before soaking the seeds, let the seeds dry for 1-2 days. When soaking the seeds, first soak the seeds with cold water, remove them and pour them into pre-prepared 45 ℃ (not hot) warm water, keep on Stir for about 10 minutes, and when the water temperature drops to 30 ℃, remove the deflated grains floating on the water surface to improve the emergence rate, and then soak in water for about 8 hours. When sowing, put the soaked seeds into the sowing hole, 1 per fat ball, with the melon seed mouth facing down. After the seeds are sown, evenly cover the fine soil with a thickness of about 1 cm, it is advisable to cover all the fat balls, and then pour the human and animal manure to make the water saturation.
4, cover film insulation. After the water on the surface of the seedbed is slightly dry, first cover a layer of microfilm (not covered in the greenhouse), press the edge of the film slightly with soil, and then use bamboo slices to make a 50 cm high-level arch, cover the film, and use soil to cover the edge of the film. Compacting and sealing (the small arched shed in the shed) plays a role in thermal insulation. 5. Seedbed management. Before emergence, the temperature was kept at 25-30°C during the day and 12-15°C at night. After partial emergence, the fat balls or nutrient bowls are covered with double-film and the micro-film is removed; after the cotyledons are basically all out, water them once and permeate them with proper ventilation. The temperature is kept at 20-25 ℃ during the day and 10-13 ℃ at night to prevent leggy growth. . As the melon seedlings grow, the mulching time can be gradually reduced, and the seedlings can have sufficient light as much as possible. When the surface of the seedbed turns white on sunny days, water it once in the morning or evening. If the surface of the seedbed is not white, do not water to prevent diseases.
3. Apply enough basal fertilizer
Pumpkin has a large demand for potassium and nitrogen [according to the unit yield of 4 tons (the same below), it requires 21-24 kg of potassium oxide and 18-21 kg of pure nitrogen], followed by calcium and phosphorus (calcium oxide 16-24 kg, five Phosphorus oxide 6-7 kg), and magnesium (magnesium oxide 4-12 kg). According to the characteristics that pumpkin needs potassium, nitrogen and calcium fertilizers mainly in the fruit expansion period, while phosphorus and magnesium are relatively stable and difficult to be used, the base fertilizer should be re-applied with organic fertilizers and phosphorus, calcium and magnesium fertilizers, and combined with appropriate potassium and nitrogen fertilizers. Potassium and nitrogen fertilizers are mainly used as top dressing, and attention should be paid to the characteristics of farming. After the land is ploughed and leveled, 20 days before planting or direct seeding, the net cropping shall be based on the plant-row spacing of 0.6 × 2.0 m to dig base fertilizer nests, and intercropping in young orchards with no more than 50 seedlings per mu shall be based on the plant-row spacing (2.5 + 1.5) × 0.6 meters, dig a basal fertilizer nest in the same direction as the fruit seedlings, the width and depth of the nest are 0.4 meters and 0.15 meters, each nest is mixed with 0.1 kg of compound fertilizer of 18-6-16 or 15-15-15 and 3-5 kg of decomposed farmyard manure Apply evenly and then cover with soil to be planted.
4. Timely planting
(1) Colonization time. About 25 days after emergence, that is, after the melon seedlings have three leaves and one heart, they should be planted in time. Colonization should be carried out in the evening or cloudy days, and should not be colonized in rainy days.
(2) Reasonable close planting. A colonization nest with a depth of 0.1 m was dug on the covering soil of the base fertilizer nest, and one plant was planted in each nest, with 550 plants per mu. After direct seeding, 2-3 seeds per nest are sown, and 1-2 cm is covered with fine soil. After the seedlings grow to 2 true leaves, only one robust seedling is left.
(3) Matters needing attention. The existing base fertilizer must be covered with soil for 0.1 meters, and then planted on the side of the soil. When planting, eliminate weak seedlings and seedlings that fall off the fat balls, put the seedlings in the planting nest, righting, cultivating soil, and slightly compacting, and the depth is suitable for the cotyledons to be level with the ground. After planting, drench the roots with water. For the earlier planting, the soil surface should be covered with plastic film, and then the soil surface should be covered with a small arched shed.
5. Field Management
(1) Replenish seedlings and protect seedlings. Pumpkin lack of seedlings has a great impact on yield. In the process of slowing seedlings after planting, for those with poor growth such as lack of seedlings, yellowing of leaves, deformity, etc. and difficulties in slowing seedlings, new seedlings should be replanted or replanted in time to ensure uniform seedlings. Pay attention to the prevention and control of diseases and insect pests to avoid livestock and poultry damage to the seedlings.
(2) Timely top dressing. After the pumpkin is planted, it grows rapidly under the condition of suitable temperature and humidity. It is necessary to control the fertilization and keep the leaves dark green to avoid leggy growth. Planting is about a week, once every 10 days, with clear water manure or 2-3% 18-6-16 or 15-15-15 compound fertilizer solution, topdressing 2-3 times, when the plants enter the vigorous growth period and form When there are 1-2 melons, the melon fertilizer should be re-applied before sealing. The amount and method of fertilization are as follows: 15-20 kilograms of 18-6-16 or 15-15-15 compound fertilizer per mu, 1000 kilograms of human and animal manure, fertilize in nests and cover with soil. When sparsely planted (about 250 plants per mu), each plant has more than 3 melons, and then topdressing is required.
(3) Drainage and drought resistance. After the pumpkin is planted, it is necessary to control the water, and it is advisable to make the soil around the root moist. In the rainy season, attention should be paid to drainage, and water should not be accumulated around the root of the pumpkin.
(4) Cultivation and weeding. From the time of planting to the extension of the vine, the soil is loosened once, and the second cultivating and weeding is carried out when the vine is fallen, and the soil is cultivated, and the vine is extended to one side, so that the rhizosphere is cultivated into a small soil ridge. - 2 times of cultivating and weeding, stop cultivating and weeding after the ridges are closed. After each heavy rain, care should be taken to cultivate the soil so that the root system of the pumpkin is not exposed to the ground.
(5) Pruning and pressing vines. Pumpkin is an extensive management crop, but if it is allowed to grow and the branches and leaves are too lush, the fruit setting will be poor. When the seedling grows to about 6 leaves, it must be topped (short tip) to promote the extraction of lateral branches (vines or vines), and then wipe (picked) all the remaining 2-3 strong lateral vines (vines). , the use of side branches more fruit. When the vines grow to about 50 cm, you should guide the vines and press the vines once, that is, it is best to guide the vines to the empty row after the rain has passed, and then use the moist and soft soil to press the vines on the soil at about 36 cm. Then, press the vines once every 40 cm or so, for a total of 3 times, so as to distribute them evenly, avoid crowding and shade between plants, promote adventitious roots in the vines, and increase the absorption surface of the root system. , and fix the plant. For pumpkins cultivated in racks, only the main vines can be left, and the vines can be introduced and tied to the shelves in a timely manner.
(6) Auxiliary pollination and fruit yield control. Pumpkin is a typical cross-pollination crop, and the self-pollination result rate is low, so artificial assisted pollination should be carried out, especially when the melons start to bear due to the low number of male (male) flowers and the hindrance of insect activities in rainy seasons. Pumpkin blooms in the early morning, pollination is best around 7:00, and it is required to end before 9:00 on sunny days. The method is to first remove the male flower petals, and then gently apply the pollen on the pollen column to the female (female) stigma, which is completed, but the female flower should be covered in rainy days to avoid rainwater scouring. The first melon of each plant is generally not kept due to its small size, and is removed before flowering; 2-3 melons are kept in each plant. After the remaining melons set fruit, 3-4 leaves are left at the front of the melon for topping; the excess male flowers should also be placed in the Remove when the size of the female finger. Pumpkin grows leggy and it is difficult to set fruit. On the one hand, control fertilizer and water, and on the other hand, use a knife at the base of the stem to stab it longitudinally (that is, the knife edge is in the same direction as the melon and vine) to promote fruit setting.
(7) Pest control. The main diseases of pumpkin are virus disease, powdery mildew and leaf spot; the main pests are aphids, yellow insects (Huangshougua) and leaf miners. Virus diseases should be treated with aphids and sprayed with virus A500 times to prevent them. Powdery mildew and leaf spot can be controlled with 80% Kebo 600 times liquid, once every 10 days. Powdery mildew can also be controlled with 1500 times the solution of fenugreek. Leaf spot can also be controlled with 600 times of antiviral alum. Aphids can be controlled with 10% imidacloprid WP 2500-3000 times. You can also use 1000-1500 times liquid of 40% Lesben EC, or 1500-2000 times liquid of 52.25% Nongdi Le EC together with leafminer and Huangshou melon (note: dichlorvos and dimethoate are harmful to melons). When there are many weeds, spray the water with glyphosate according to the instructions.
6. Harvest in time
The female flowers of honeydew squash mature about 50 days after flowering. The temperature is high, the maturity is fast, and it is difficult to change from green to yellow at low temperature. The main features of ripening are the thickening of wax powder on the peel, the color of the peel changes from green to yellow or orange, the peel becomes hard, and the nails are not easy to break and can be harvested. Picking should be done after the dew is dry on a sunny day, and the base of the stalk should be cut flat to avoid damage to other peels, so as to facilitate storage. Mature pumpkins can be stored for a long time after being harvested. Spring-sown pumpkins can be harvested for a long time if the plants are well managed.
(Note: This article is reproduced for reference only)